I created the ramp up to the chicken house. I used a 2"x10" scrap about 3' long and nailed some plywood strips to it, then painted on some weather treatment. I think I'm officially done with the chicken coop. Extras excluded; power, heat & water.
I also built the two nest box support braces and another rabbit nest box. I painted weather proofing on the outside of the boxes to keep the weather out. I used the circular saw and the cuts were much cleaner.
Tony Faircloth
Cantonment, FL
Showing posts with label chicken coop. Show all posts
Showing posts with label chicken coop. Show all posts
Sunday, October 18, 2009
General Update-091017
I placed boards around the bottom of then chicken yard and attached the bottom of the poultry netting to it. With the exception of the ramp to the house I think the chicken coop is complete. I still must decide upon any extra insulation to block wind but otherwise I'm finished.
I think I will get the bitties in the Spring so that I don't have to worry too much about extreme cold temps while they're young. However for the next Winter (2010) I will need to work on insulating the chicken house from the wind, and by adding a heat source of some type. Currently it is fully walled with chicken wire except for the floor which is 1/4" screen supported by two lengths of heavy wire with turnbuckles for tightening as needed.
I am also reveiwing my Storey's book on chickens for feeder and waterer placement, as well as feeding guidelines.
I decided to alter the rabbitry design to allow for the nest boxes to protrude outside the cages. I will build a support for the backend of the cages consisting of 2"x4"x12" arms that will hold a 2"x2"8' brace. I have the wood and screws I just need to assemble it.
I also built a 12"Hx12"Wx18"L nest box from 1/2" scrap plywood. The front entrance swoops from 12" tall to 6" to allow the rabbit to enter. It turned out a little rough but I'm sure the rabbits won't complain. I think using a circular saw vice a jig saw would help the look. I also hinged the back 10" of the top so that I can get into them for cleaning and inspection from the outside. I think I can have another three made by the close of next Saturday.
Several weeks ago I ordered some 2 liter bottle adapters from the Bass Equipment company to allow me to use 2 liter soda bottles for rabbit waterers. They came in and I set them up on the four breeder cages. One I filled and found that the spring that holds the top of the bottle to the cage also squishes it strong enough to force the water out past the ball at the end of the waterer. I was pretty upset but i think I can save the expense by buying a set of short bungie cords, or adding a setion on to the spring so as to lessen its strength against the bottle. I did check around at local pet and farm stores for similar adapters but found none.
This week I ordered 4 Finex feeders. This style feeder aids in filtering dust from the food so that the rabbits don't inhale it and get lung ailements. They should come in within a couple weeks. With the waterers, feeders and nest boxes in place I will be ready for the breeder rabbits and then will work on the fryer cages and equipment.
Though the rabbits won't mind the cold I may wait to get them in the Spring also, however if all gets done and I have the money maybe before.
I will take and publish some poictures when I get time.
Tony Faircloth
Pensacola, FL
I think I will get the bitties in the Spring so that I don't have to worry too much about extreme cold temps while they're young. However for the next Winter (2010) I will need to work on insulating the chicken house from the wind, and by adding a heat source of some type. Currently it is fully walled with chicken wire except for the floor which is 1/4" screen supported by two lengths of heavy wire with turnbuckles for tightening as needed.
I am also reveiwing my Storey's book on chickens for feeder and waterer placement, as well as feeding guidelines.
I decided to alter the rabbitry design to allow for the nest boxes to protrude outside the cages. I will build a support for the backend of the cages consisting of 2"x4"x12" arms that will hold a 2"x2"8' brace. I have the wood and screws I just need to assemble it.
I also built a 12"Hx12"Wx18"L nest box from 1/2" scrap plywood. The front entrance swoops from 12" tall to 6" to allow the rabbit to enter. It turned out a little rough but I'm sure the rabbits won't complain. I think using a circular saw vice a jig saw would help the look. I also hinged the back 10" of the top so that I can get into them for cleaning and inspection from the outside. I think I can have another three made by the close of next Saturday.
Several weeks ago I ordered some 2 liter bottle adapters from the Bass Equipment company to allow me to use 2 liter soda bottles for rabbit waterers. They came in and I set them up on the four breeder cages. One I filled and found that the spring that holds the top of the bottle to the cage also squishes it strong enough to force the water out past the ball at the end of the waterer. I was pretty upset but i think I can save the expense by buying a set of short bungie cords, or adding a setion on to the spring so as to lessen its strength against the bottle. I did check around at local pet and farm stores for similar adapters but found none.
This week I ordered 4 Finex feeders. This style feeder aids in filtering dust from the food so that the rabbits don't inhale it and get lung ailements. They should come in within a couple weeks. With the waterers, feeders and nest boxes in place I will be ready for the breeder rabbits and then will work on the fryer cages and equipment.
Though the rabbits won't mind the cold I may wait to get them in the Spring also, however if all gets done and I have the money maybe before.
I will take and publish some poictures when I get time.
Tony Faircloth
Pensacola, FL
Sunday, October 4, 2009
General Update-091004
I wasn't feeling a hundred percent today so not much got done. I added a a bottom board to the chicken yard because I had it as spare. I will need 4 more. Then I can tack the bottom of the chicken wire to them to keep critters from getting underneath it. I just need to add the ramp into the chicken house, then hang the feeders/waters and it will be ready.
I added some clamp lights to the rabbitry for when needed. I was going to build next boxes but realized that I needed to calculate sizes before beginning otherwise I may have cavernous nest boxes, or squashed rabbits, neither is acceptable. I looked on myn Storey's book on rabbits (the Bible on the subject as far as I'm concerned) and couldn't find it so I will have to research the topic. I think I build for the New Zealand whites which is a medium large rabbit even if I decide to get something else.
I also bought some devices that you plug a 2 liter bottle into for watering. I have placed several in my raised beds adn will watch to see how they do. My first impressions are that they might be more work to constantly refill; that a PVC line might be more suitable, however I will see... they might be most helpful in dry season, or when we are away on vacation.
Tony
Pensacola
I added some clamp lights to the rabbitry for when needed. I was going to build next boxes but realized that I needed to calculate sizes before beginning otherwise I may have cavernous nest boxes, or squashed rabbits, neither is acceptable. I looked on myn Storey's book on rabbits (the Bible on the subject as far as I'm concerned) and couldn't find it so I will have to research the topic. I think I build for the New Zealand whites which is a medium large rabbit even if I decide to get something else.
I also bought some devices that you plug a 2 liter bottle into for watering. I have placed several in my raised beds adn will watch to see how they do. My first impressions are that they might be more work to constantly refill; that a PVC line might be more suitable, however I will see... they might be most helpful in dry season, or when we are away on vacation.
Tony
Pensacola
Saturday, September 19, 2009
General Update-090919
I worked on the chicken coop today. I purchased some more chicken wire and poultry staples. I placed chicken wire on the sides and end. I also ran some wire from the chicken house to the end post, I then took some wire-cage clamps that I was given to build wire cages, and clamped the top of the fence to the wire.
I layed two bowed 2"x4"s across the middle and end poles of the chicken yard, then ran three strands of wire from the chicken house, across the top of the center board and anchored it to the end board. This is intended to help support the chicken wire roof pieces of chicken yard. Since I widened the yard the chicken wire can't sit on the top evenly... so disturbing for a perfectionist! They should be flat and stretched tight but alas, they're wavy!
I will add a board screwed to the poles that runs along the ground between poles the length of the yard. The chicken wire is lose at the bottom and animals would be able to climb underneath. I think a board will add some strength and allow me to tack the chicken wire on to the board.
I also noted that one of my rabbit pellet trays was cracked and sagging so I bought a 1" steel brace and screwed it in. I hope it will hold so I don't have to take it all apart and replace the broken board.
I also bought two 2"x4"s to use to brace the bowing rabbitry roof. I will jack up the roof to remove the dip then screw in the new boards to brace it.
I priced rabbit feeders and waterers online from BASS. I think I will need to spend around $50+, and about the same for the waterers so not looking forward to spending that money however I think It will save me some grief in the end. The waterers are adapters for 2 liter soda bottles that also come with a bracket to hold it to the cage. I will start with 10 bottles but will probably end up putting two bottles in each fryer cage.
The feeders are the self-filtering type that allow the feed dust to fall through. They will range from 11" for the fryer cages to to 6" for the breeder cages. I will also make hay racks out of wire caging.
I researched nest boxes and will begin to build them soon. I found a great site that showed how to make ten nest boxes with one 4'x8' sheet of plywood, however the boxes were too small. The basic design is easy though and should be no problem to build. I will try to finish up the chicken coop this or next week then move on to the nest boxes.
Tony
Cantonment
I layed two bowed 2"x4"s across the middle and end poles of the chicken yard, then ran three strands of wire from the chicken house, across the top of the center board and anchored it to the end board. This is intended to help support the chicken wire roof pieces of chicken yard. Since I widened the yard the chicken wire can't sit on the top evenly... so disturbing for a perfectionist! They should be flat and stretched tight but alas, they're wavy!
I will add a board screwed to the poles that runs along the ground between poles the length of the yard. The chicken wire is lose at the bottom and animals would be able to climb underneath. I think a board will add some strength and allow me to tack the chicken wire on to the board.
I also noted that one of my rabbit pellet trays was cracked and sagging so I bought a 1" steel brace and screwed it in. I hope it will hold so I don't have to take it all apart and replace the broken board.
I also bought two 2"x4"s to use to brace the bowing rabbitry roof. I will jack up the roof to remove the dip then screw in the new boards to brace it.
I priced rabbit feeders and waterers online from BASS. I think I will need to spend around $50+, and about the same for the waterers so not looking forward to spending that money however I think It will save me some grief in the end. The waterers are adapters for 2 liter soda bottles that also come with a bracket to hold it to the cage. I will start with 10 bottles but will probably end up putting two bottles in each fryer cage.
The feeders are the self-filtering type that allow the feed dust to fall through. They will range from 11" for the fryer cages to to 6" for the breeder cages. I will also make hay racks out of wire caging.
I researched nest boxes and will begin to build them soon. I found a great site that showed how to make ten nest boxes with one 4'x8' sheet of plywood, however the boxes were too small. The basic design is easy though and should be no problem to build. I will try to finish up the chicken coop this or next week then move on to the nest boxes.
Tony
Cantonment
Monday, September 7, 2009
General Update-090907
Today I finished the poop trays for the rabbitry.. what pain, and nasty since I used tar to glue the tar paper to the OSB. I used OSB because it was cheap but knew it would not last in the elements so I have used left over tar paper and tar to weather proof it. I will build a thin scraper to scrape the trays regularly. I also bought handles for the breeder cage doors but didn't put them on. I power screwed my ring finger bruising one side and putting a blood blister under the other side.
I must now build the nest boxes for the breeder cages and maybe a open sided box to offer the fryer rabbits more comfort during harsh weather. Then I will bu the bottles and feeders and the rabbitry will be ready.
The chicken coop is almost ready. I need to add caging to the yard and some shelter, maybe another nest box beneath the first, larger I think. I may also build a small shelter area at the other end of the yard, and including a perch.
I managed to break off two branches off of two blueberry bushes. Maybe I can root them, maybe not.
Tony
Cantonment
Thursday, September 3, 2009
General Update-090903
Today I was able to place one row of chicken wire down the back side of the chicken yard. It amazes me how difficult poultry nails can be to hammer in. Its never about a flat board on a hard surface. I had to bend over and hammer in the nail while stretching and placing the chicken. I think I may only need one more role of chicken wire, maybe two with the roof. I think I will use the turnbuckle and wire support for the roof.
I also bought 6 tomato plants, three Celebrity's and three... Sundowners, something like that, and four Acorn squash plants. I also have a packet of squash seeds I will put out too. I think I'll put the tomatoes in the front raised beds, and the squash in the raised bed on the side of the house. These will be easy to clean and plant, though I'll need to use some fertilizer. I hope the tomatoes will produce outside the normal bug life cycle.
This weekend I will try to get all the chicken wire I have up, and build the rabbit pellet trays. Maybe even jack-up and fix the roof. I need will need a couple straight 2"x4"x8' boards and some 3" exterior screws, and my jack. For the rabbit trays I will need to buy another gallon of tar though I think I have the needed wood.
A thing I learned recently is not to store boards standing up. I think it makes them warp. Store the flat; horizontal.
I was also thinking recently, after the success of my new gate made from 1"x2" s that I might make 8' sections of fence the same way... basically a 2"x4" on each end, a 2"x2" on the top and bottom and 1"x2" boards spaced out at around 4" running in between. I could eventually replace the interior wire fences and ugly green metal poles. Its something to think about, after I fix the things wrong on the house this Fall/Winter.
Tony
Cantonment
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